;) Ill see how it goes and then tell you if it looks any good :P
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;) Ill see how it goes and then tell you if it looks any good :P
ha ha....ok m8, good luck. :)
Well ive added some grilles to the fans and added a new fan controller (6 channel - it cant run the enterprise like some - but i like it :P)
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/5751/grilles.jpg
Hers teh FC (ill post some of it on my rig tomorrow hopefully)
http://www.zalman.co.kr/DataFile/pro...us_01_b(0).jpg
The braiding kits were out of stock so the header cables have been wrapped in black electricians tape :P
Just buy the braiding and heatshrink seperate m8...cheaper and you only buy wot your gonna use. :)
So i decided to mess about with my watercooling :P
Itchy fingers and all that I decided to add an additional Thermochill PA120.1 into the case to take the x2 and leave the TC PA 120.3 just for the CPU
I did envisage it sitting in the roof of the case (it is does fit) just far to tight to get the rad, with fan and fan holder attached and into place and I really wanted to have the fan in the fan holder for neatness.
After a bit of experimenting I realised (with a re-jig of my drive bays, I could fit the rad / fan in the front of the case, so off i went ...................
First of all I drilled the four screw holes out of the fan holder so I could screw through it, the fan and into the rad, for a more secure job (more on this later !) and removed the filter and mesh front, and clipped the fan into place:
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/9310/dsc02416.jpg
I then screwed the fan and holder onto the rad :
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/5230/dsc02423.jpg
You may notice the "bulge" to the side, this is as you screw the holder tight to the rad the clips holding the fan are forced apart (I eventually cut these back and re-arranged the attachment of the whole set up as it fouled the edging that closes over the side of the drive bays
Back to the screws (ahhhhh!!!!!) I would suggest you check, then double check, the screws and attachment to the rad very carefully - The rad shown is the second I had to purchase as I pierced the first one resulting in blue Feser pissing all over my study floor
As you can see the screws supplied by Thermochill (on the right) are longer than those supplied by a third party supplier for TC rads!
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/6725/dsc02421g.jpg
I would like to say at this point Steve at TC was very good through all of this offering advice on how to repair the hole and giving me a discount on the replacement. Also note the "other" screws are a better size, but possibly a tad short for some situations. Anyway on with the job at hand ....
Space wise I didn't see how id get another DCC pump / res in and didn't want to spend the money on what started out as an experiment so I opted for a single drive bay pump / res combo (I may swap this out at a later date) - I dont particularly like the look of them so i taped the mesh front from a single bay infill to the front of the res to camouflage it a bit:
http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/6695/dsc02419.jpg
So after that all went relatively well and the front of the rig (with the door open) now looks like so (Still deciding on whether to remove the chrome fan guard and replace it with mesh) but for now :
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/6227/dsc02439j.jpg
Also fitted a new 6 channel fan controller
I did actually strip the fan / holder pump down and eventually use the even shorter screws to screw the fan to the rad through the closest holes and then thread the soft fan mounts through the other holes, through the fan holder and through the grilles.
So all in place and fired up :
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/1636/dsc02436o.jpg
After looking at the set up with them on and off I decided to take the springs / coils off
With UVs on (although its not particularly dark atm - ill get some better shots) :
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/5130/dsc02440z.jpg
Idle temps are down 5-7 degrees although ambient room temp is up a few - so all in all a good drop from removing the x2 from the loop and the x2 temps aren't too shabby either
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/6585/newloopidle.png
Under load (see max temps) using IBT:
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/9...opibtloads.png
Realtemp cool down test (maxxed out on Prime @ 50)
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/610...mecooldown.png
And some real nice temps on a cool morning (yesterday )
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/6121/coolqup.png
There was a guy on chilled the other week saying he used wrong size screws and made 12 holes in his thermochill 120.3 rad....he soldered them up..... took a few goes b4 it was sorted. gutting.
Looks like its nearly time for a new case if you get another 4870x2 m8.
Nice work TB
Cheers guys :D
Ouch on 12 holes ! I felt a tit doing one :P
TC did say i could prolly solder it but i couldnt be arsed (and dont have a soldering iron :P)
Just been messing about and got 3.978 GHz with 442*9 @ 1.62v (!)
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/5764/tb3978.png
Looks superb mate :up:
best place for rad screws
Cheers Lloyd
I got the same screws from Chilled PC along with the extra tube and Feser :)
Ah cool, i didn't realise that did good screws too :up:
Just noticed you have took the anti kink coils off.....looks nice. :)
Ta :)
Did you like my OC :D
Don't talk to me about overclocking. :(
I have to reformat tmoro. cant be arsed to reinstall everything again. :(
But yes very impressive my good friend. :)
GL mate - I hate reformatting :|
Can you not OC at all at the moment still? :(
I havent tried anything other than 3.6ghz.....i wont accept anything lower....so has to be done im afraid. :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by {SAS}TB